Archive for the ‘Refurbishment’ category

The saga continues…

October 14th, 2016

I have not written a blog post for quite a while. The website tells me it was more than two years ago. Oops. The last sentence said “Next time I will hopefully have a lot more progress to show off.” I don’t really have much progress to show on the car, but I did get round to building a workshop to use. I assumed it would take very little time to refurbish two small rooms. I was expecting a couple of months from start to finish. It took closer to 18months, even now, they are not completely finished. Here are some highlights:SAM_3123

Some back ground first. The room is part of a stonewalled outbuilding, which has been many things since it was built. A vicarage, a dairy, a workshop and, as the above picture shows, a kitchen. Behind a wobbly wall hid a bread oven (on the left of the fire place) and a water heating copper (on the right). When I dug the floor out (quarry tiles on sand) I found a drain/toilet running right through the centre of the room. Apparently, people used to throw fire ash into them to stop the nasty toilet smells. I also found this.

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Hidden under the floor, was a cellar. Full of contaminated water. The brown thing in the bottom left of the photo is a rusted through barrel of turpentine. There was about 7 cubic metres of water in the cellar. 10 weeks and a lot of money later, it was filled with 10cubic metres of concrete.

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The above photo shows a stone wall rendered in lime. That took me 10 hours straight to do that, and 800kg of lime render. Not too bad for a first attempt.

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I decided to be a bit whimsical with putting a sink in. I cast a concrete sideboard. Hat tip to Sam for the idea.

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I also made some new doors. In hindsight, pine doors are not ideal for external doors, but hey-ho.

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This is the end result. It is a dry area large enough to do things in, with power, light, heat and water. That’ll do. The majority of the reason this took so long is I had to teach myself how to do everything. Mistakes were made. Then rectified. Setbacks occurred, but were dealt with. I’ve learned a lot, and have some confidence I could build a house from scratch.

Anyway, car progress:

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I dragged the engine/gearbox out from where it had been stored. With the aid of a Heath-Robinson ramp, and various family members, dragged it into the work shop. Where I set about stripping all the wiring off it, labelling everything as I went.

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The above shows coolant temperature sensors and injector number 1.

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Some earth cables and an oxygen sensor.

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Injector 2,4,6,8. Some plugs were impossible to remove with taking the fuel rail and ram pipes off.

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So I did. This photo looks down on the top of the engine. You can see all 8 petrol injectors, and all 8 LPG injectors. All disconnected from the wiring loom. You can also see the engine is extremely dirty. I mean filthy. Many gaskets need replacing. So the next job was to get it on the sand so I could wash it. See below.

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I have a lot of cleaning/ degreasing to do. Some astute people might have worked out that my use of present tense means I haven’t done that yet…    and those people would be correct. I haven’t started cleaning it yet, but I did instead separate the LPG ECU from the main engine harness and cut it out. As it turned out, it was really very easy to do. There were only 6 wiring connections to sort out.

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The wires that had been taped had just been spliced into, the heat-shrinked wires were cut and diverted through the LPG loom to the ECU and controller etc. It was simply a case of cut the wires and re-join the correct colour wires together.

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I did have to extend the wires, as the wires were too short to connect them without straining them. So I cut some wire from the LPG loom and used it to bridge the gap. Put heat shrink over all connections and taped the lot up.

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LPG loom is separate. The car now only uses petrol again. No problems. Next job was to connect the engine harness up to the rest of the wiring loom, which I had already started attaching to piece of plywood.

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Wiring loom is all connected. Next step is to check that the whole thing still works. The simplest way to do so is to connect a car battery up to the loom and start pressing all the buttons. If things don’t work, it is simply because no current is flowing. Either it is missing power or earth, or a fuse/bulb has blown such that no circuit can be completed. So, trouble shooting the loom is just a case of determining which is missing. Multi-meters at the ready. Time to see if I was careful about cutting the loom to pieces or not.

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The wiring loom does indeed work, all functions still work, windscreen washers/wipers, wing mirrors, headlight adjustors, even remote central locking. The lot. The only issues with the loom were two broken bulbs and knackered horn, I am quite happy with that. I did have an issue with the key fob. The car wouldn’t remove the immobiliser, I thought I was going to have issues. But I opened the key fob, and it had no battery in it. Replaced the battery, still the same issue. But looking at the key situation, I have four keys. Two that unlocked the door (when it had them), and two that operate the ignition barrel. I also have two key fobs. I used the second fob, it locked and unlocked the car, and also disabled the immobiliser. I get power to the injectors, happy days. The wiring loom is ready to be test fitted to the car. I can then start moving things to where I want them to be, extend or shorten the loom, put on a single plug for the engine harness, so I only have to undo one plug to separate the engine and gearbox from the main loom.

One final bit of progress for this time, I split the engine and gearbox and put the engine on the stand.

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I didn’t feel happy about just using the engine block to hang the engine, since it is still wet i.e. it is still full of oil. So, I made some alterations to the engine stand. Much happier about that. It is how it is hung in the car. I am happy to leave that where it is for what in all possibility could be another two years…. I hope not. Anyway, I need a trip to Rimmer brothers to get a load of gaskets to seal the engine back up. I will be checking the health as I go. I have a feeling I may replace the timing chain as a matter of course. Apparently they stretch a bit. I’ll check the camshaft, lifters, rockers etc. The engine has 100,000 miles on it. Apparently, it is not uncommon to need replacement camshafts at this age. If doing the camshaft, it is best practice to do the lot. If that is the case, I’ll try and find some 4litre  TVR heads, I think people still make them. And if that is the case, I may try to find some forged pistons. As somewhere down the road, it may end up turbocharged. OR if that feels like too much hard work, I may go and find a Chevrolet engine, as it would probably be cheaper.

Anyway, I’ve written plenty.

Still here!

April 23rd, 2014

So, again, it has been longer than I anticipated, and wanted, between writing a post. Partly due to the fact that I have been out most weeks testing a new driver with Richardson Racing, which means I have had less time than I would like to prepare parts and run them down to the powder coaters. The other reason is I haven’t had the cash to buy everything I need to re-build the axles, basically, I needed roughly £500-600. A quick run down of the things I need; 2x swivel bearing housings; 8x wheel bearings; 4x brake discs; 4x swivel bearings; MANYx paper gaskets; 2x swivel oil seals; 4x axle oil seals; and 4x hub oil seals, I have probably forgotten some things, but you get the idea. Happily, within the next few weeks I will have got all the bits and bobs I need to make some big progress. All I will need to do in the mean time is get the casings blasted and painted. As an aside, I have decided not to powder coat the casings as there is a chance they may distort whilst curing in the oven. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Anyway, as you might imagine, there hasn’t been much progress in the past few weeks. So, in the latter half of the post I have included photos of the Formula Ford after a little off-track excursion.

Right, let’s get on with it.

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The above is a picture of one of the radius arms, which connects the front axle to the chassis, it also travels right under the engine. It has an accumulated a nice layer of engine and road grime, as you can see in the picture below.

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I spent about 10 minutes an arm with a wire wheel, the gunk went all over the place. But, the radius arms cleaned up quite well.

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Not a lot of rust on them at all. Maybe the best way to prevent a component rusting is to leave it under a Rover engine…. Maybe not.

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The above shows the radius arms after they had been powder coated, again in satin black (RAL 9005 if you are interested). Below is a close up, I think they look pretty nice. They look all shiny and new.

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Below is a photo showing the general colour scheme, the calipers are fairly vivid. At the moment, I am not 100% sure how I will colour each part, but the general colour scheme is nice.

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I have also got round to rebuilding my calipers, brand new pistons and seals all round. Below is a picture of a rear caliper, looking like new.

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Anyway, unfortunately, that is all the progress I have to report on the Tomcat. It is still progress nonetheless.

So on to the Formula Ford.

The pictures below show the damage.

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A very bent lower front wishbone, a slightly bent upper wishbone, a bowed pushrod, and a bent steering adjustment rod.

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A snapped front upper wishbone bracket.

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A bent front upper wishbone mounting rose joint.

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A bent rear upper upper wishbone.

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Along with two cracked alloys and a delaminated front wing.

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The damage to the front wing only became apparent when it was bent. There was absolutely no structural rigidity to the wing, it was very flexible, which is not right. The photo above shows the rear of the front wing. When bent downward, a gap opened up in the carbon fibre along the point of the trailing edge, presumably where the upper and lower halves of the wing profile are (or were) bonded together. There was also a fine crack on the underside of the wing.

Later I found more damage, which included a split CV boot, a snapped CV tripod bearing retaining ring and a gouged drive flange. Effectively, an entire CV joint that was also damaged beyond repair in the accident. Just for those who are interested, the single most expensive piece was the front wing.

“How did it happen?” I hear you ask. Well, whilst at Snetterton testing, we had told the driver that we would do a race simulation. This means we wanted him to chase a lap time and stick to it for as long as possible. Just when he was getting confident he spun at the final corner and ended up on the grass. In the process of driving back onto the circuit he drove through the grass, so we called him into the pits to check the side pods for grass clippings (of which there were none), as if you don’t remove the grass the engine will overheat (due to blocked radiators), resulting in warped cylinder heads, engine seizure or other catastrophic engine failure mechanisms. We then sent him immediately back out to continue with the simulation. He completed an out-lap, another lap and on his 3rd lap after the first spin, the red flags came out.

The onboard footage revealed that as he went into the first corner, the car twitched a bit, which he caught. In doing so, he ran wide and put two wheels onto the grass, at which point he lifted off and jerked the steering towards the track in an effort to get back on to the track. Unfortunately, the back torque from the engine (engine braking) and the weight transfer forward due to lifting off the throttle, coupled with the lower coefficient of friction on one side and the steering input caused the car to do a complete 360 degree spin, across the track and into the wall. Fortunately, the driver was fine, as was the car… in the grand scheme of things. All the parts of the car that are designed to crumple, crumpled, leaving all the expensive bits (chassis, gearbox casing, driver etc) untouched.

Here are a couple of photos after a couple of hours work:

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A new front corner.

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A partially new rear corner.

Wishbone crumple zones

The above picture shows the various ways these wishbones have been designed with the safety of the driver in mind.

Some of the points above are obvious, like routing the brake pipe inside the wishbone. This protects the pipe, which prevents the pipe rupturing and loss of braking as a result. Additionally, there are dual brake circuits (two master cylinders), one for the front and one for the rear.

The check strap is a kevlar re-inforced rope, its purpose is to prevent the wheel and hub assembly bouncing down the road should they get knocked off in a crash, preventing accidents such as the one that killed Henry Surtees. The length of the rope is such that the is very little to no slack along the length of it, i.e.: there is just enough rope to reach and secure the hub, and no more. This means there is a clearly defined spherical voulme within which the wheel will be able to move, obviously this should be nowhere near the driver (or any other driver/marshall/spectator for that matter). Again, it becomes obvious to see that the eyelets are there to prevent the rope getting damaged (by holding it still).

The side intrusion bars are obvious as well. If the wheels/suspension assembly is hit in such a way that both inboard mounting points snap so that the wishbones move inward towards the chassis, the movement through the chassis is stopped by the intrusion rails banging into one of the chassis’ main bulk head hoops. This significantly lessesn the chance of impaling the driver.

The mounting brackets that hold the wishbones to the chassis/gearbox are all made of Aluminium. The wishbones are steel, and the chassis is steel (the gearbox casing is cast Aluminium). Aluminium is a weaker, less tough material than steel for the same physical dimensions. So, we can logically assume that the brackets have been designed to break upon a large enough impact. This is for two reasons: 1) to isolate the driver from the impact, by removing load pathways into the chassis. 2) to protect the expensive parts of the car from damage. The expensive parts being the chassis and gearbox casing. With that being said, in the case of a perfect side impact (one were the car is stationary and something runs into the wheel), chances are the brackets wouldn’t snap, as they are butted up to the chassis and have more material on the chassis side. Not to mention the wishbones only have a few mm of travel before they hit solid metal. They are designed to break away in the most likely case, which will be wheel to wheel contact in a braking zone.

At the inboard mounting points of the wishbones, there are some necked regions. They are necked in the xy and xz planes.

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If you assume the face we are looking at is the XZ plane, then the XY plane would go into the screen. The smallest cross-section of the wishbone is shown by the blue line, the necked region is shown by the two red dotted lines. The wishbone has a bend into the screen as denoted by the cracked paint (the surface we are looking at has been subjected to the highest tensile stress of the bend, which has stretched the paint and cracked it off). The bend has occured at the point of minimum cross-section. So, again, you can logically assume the neck is there as a bend initiation point. The only reasons I can think of are either: to absorb crash energy, reducing the loading travelling into the mounting bracket (and hence chassis); or to bend the rose joint so as to lessen the chances of it reaching the driver (in the case of cockpit penetration); there is also the possibility that you could cut the end off the wishbone and weld on a new rose joint (obviously after some fairly thorough NDT).

The final point is that the wishbone bent as opposed to snapped. From this we can deduce that the material used is very ductile, whilst still being very strong. Obviously this is a massive plus as it means that no sharp edges are created in the crash.

Stress-strain graph

The graph above shows the tensile stress/strain graph for a typical ductile material. A few things should be noted from this graph line OA is the elastic region of a material, whereby the material acts like a spring and obeys a Hooke’s law (F=kx) type relationship. Applying the equation of a straight line to the linear portion, y=mx+c, setting y=stress, x=strain, m=Young’s modulus of elasticity (E) and c=0. We get stress “equals” Young’s modulus of elasticity “multiplied by” strain. It can then be seen that the Young’s modulus of elasticity is the stiffness of the material and is analagous to the spring stiffness. This means any force applied to the material (as long as it is within the linear range) will cause the material to stretch. When the force is removed, the material will shrink back to it’s original length.

Point A is defined as the yield strength, i.e.: if you apply additional force, the material will stretch, but it will not return to it’s original length. The material is said to be plastically deformed, thus the yield stress can be described as the stress above which plastic deformation will occur instantaneously. Generally speaking, in engineering terms, if the yield stress is exceeded, the part is thought to have failed. Therefore, components are designed such that the design stress is below the yield stress (usually, but not always).

Right, with that said, we know that the wishbones are extremely ductile, since they didn’t snap during an impact with the barriers (they will permanently bend). During the impact, work is done on the material, i.e.: a force is applied, and the material moves a certain distance. Remembering that “work” is a mechanism of exhanging energy, therefore, energy is transferred to and stored by the wishbone as potential energy. If this happpens in the elastic region, the energy is stored for as long as the force is applied (as above). If this happens in the plastic region, the material is permanently deformed, and the potential energy is converted to heat (by the work done against the internal friction of the wishbone) and noise.

Relating this back to the graph, the area under the graph for force vs extension gives the amount of energy absorbed by the wishbone for the given elongation. The area under a stress vs strain graph gives the amount of energy absorbed per unit volume for the given strain. It would be prudent at this stage to introduce the concept of toughness, which is defined as the amount of energy a material can absorb before fracture. Since the material stores and returns the energy in the elastic region, the energy is not absorbed. Thus the toughness of a material can be defined as the area ABCDE on the graph above, as the energy that is used to permanently deform a material cannot be retreived.

So using all the information above, we can guess that to achieve the results we want (wishbones that bend and don’t snap), we must use a material that is very tough. And for a material to qualify as tough it has to have a high yield stress (i.e.: be very strong), while being able to withstand large amounts of permanent deformation before it fractures (i.e.: be very ductile).

Relating all this back to the car, the necking on the wishbones, the break away mounting brackets and the material of the wishbone, all serve to minimise the effect of a crash by absorbing as much of the energy involved as possible. They do this by bending permanently. It is logical to assume that the suspension arms themselves are designed as crumple zones. They are not crumple zones in the truest form of the word, as crumple zones seek to minimise the acceleration (or deceleration) of a crash by deforming at a desired/optimum rate. I doubt the suspension would do that, as there are too many failure modes that a suspension system poentially has to deal with, but they would certainly absorb some of the energy in a crash. Although having said that, the suspension does have the same down side as a crumple zone, being that a lot of damage is caused for a relatively minor bump.

I find it amazing that so much thought and work goes into something that is as simple as a wishbone. I mean, the above discussion only deals with the safety aspect. There are many other aspects to it, including how to manufacture the things, the performance (weight, shape, size, geometry, resultant suspension geometry etc), the cost etc etc.

Anyway, enough wittering on about wishbones. Next time I will hopefully have a lot more progress to show off. Until then….

Odd jobs and Cleaning: Part 2

February 20th, 2014

It has been too long since my last post. I do have an excuse, I have been very busy or at least it has felt like I have been busy. My time has been split between this:

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My Tomcat, some other bits and pieces and worrying about the weather. But mostly I have been worrying about the weather, and in particular the wind. To be 100% precise I have been worrying about how gale force wind affects a 7.3m X 3.7m X 2.5m tent (kite). Whilst the South-West has been getting drowned, we have been getting blown away. Here are a few of the measures I took to keep the tent where it should be.

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First off I drilled eyelets into the concrete and tied them to the frame. Stupidly, I left a small amount of slack in the rope. The whole tent moved and lifted off the ground.

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Next step. I tied 35kg breeze blocks to each side of the seven portals in the tent. No change, the whole thing was still moving around.

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Next step. I laid a piece of wood across the legs of the end portals, then loaded that up with paving slabs. It stopped the tent lifting at the ends.

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The last thing I did to ensure that the tent stayed in my postcode was to tie a rope around the peak of the frame and run the rope outside to some very deep ground anchors. The middle of the tent stopped lifting. If the tent blew away after that so be it.

Basically I took the photos to cover my behind to prove, that if it did blow away and do damage to someone’s house, that I did take every reasonable step to prevent it happening. I am pretty sure my brain exhausted it’s whole supply of worry/stress chemicals, as at the end of the first day I did not give a stuff whether the tent stayed or not. Anyway, the tent survived, surprisingly it isn’t too badly bent either. It is still standing, when the next bout of high winds comes, I don’t know… we’ll see, I may have to make some more thorough fortifications.

Anyway, moving on.

In between the last post and this one, the Tomcat has taken a large leap forward. Namely, I got my frame!

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Here is the (un-painted) finished article. I got the go ahead from Paul at about 1pm to go and paint it. I thought it would be a fairly quick job to do, a couple of hours at the most. In the end, it took me nearly 5 hours to paint it, I ended up painting it in the dark. Mind you, I hand painted it, if I had used some aerosols, I’m sure it would’ve been quicker. So just a word to the wise. If you intend to paint it before you travel with it, get there in plenty of time. Also, I used roughly 3 litres of paint.

The paint I used was just a primer (to rust proof it until I complete it, at which point I will have it powder coated), but it was nasty stuff. All the warning signs on the side were basically telling me I would die if I used it. It was really horrible. I got a small drop on my face whilst painting the underside, it started to burn. But then the paint contained things like Zinc Phosphate so why am I surprised. Anyway, I chose this particular paint for it’s high Zinc content, in the hope that the paint will provide a bit of cathodic protection. I.e.: the paint will become the anode and corrode preferentially over the steel of the skeleton (due to the differences in electrode potential between Iron and Zinc) a la a battery. However, I pity whoever has to sand blast this back to bare metal when I get it powder coated, as I don’t think the paint will come of easily.

Unfortunately, due to the failing light, I didn’t manage to get a photo of sufficient quality to show you the painted frame. So I had to wait until a week later when Dad was free to go and pick it up (I really must get round to taking the trailer test).

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So here is the obvious photo of me sat in it, putting on a brave face, after Paul kindly put it on the trailer for me. As you can see the car is rust brown at the moment. It isn’t very becoming, but it’ll do as a sacrificial coat to keep the metal covered. After the short drive home, again unfortunately due to failing light I had to get it off the trailer quickly. I’d like to thank Fred, from the Chamberlin Bros farm, for coming over and moving the frame to where it now sits, so Thanks Fred!

So now, I think it’s time for a shim update. You may recall I put some shims in vinegar to see if it would remove the rust that was on them. Well now they have been in vinegar for a month.

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I took them out and dried them off. There has been some improvement. I must say I won’t be using vinegar to de-rust anything else. It does work, just not in a timescale that is of any use.

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Some of the shims are looking a bit dog-eared, I’ll throw those away. The rest are fine with little to no rust left, all in all the shims are ready for (re)use. I am getting close to re-building the axles, I just need to sit down and order the necessary parts from Brit-part. Speaking of which, I finally got round to cleaning the swivel bearing housings.

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This is the passenger side swivel bearing housing. This one was leaking. Presumably, a combination of rust in the seal seat and some grit caught between the swivel and oil seal have caused the swivel to start leaking. I cannot therefore re-use this, so bin.

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The above picture is the driver’s side swivel bearing housing. It is a lot worse than the passenger side. This one had leaked, as in there wasn’t much grease left in it. So much for Teflon being a much better coating than the chrome. This swivel bearing housing is showing nigh-on identical damage to the chrome ones from the spare axle. I was undecided about buying new swivel bearing housings, but seeing them made the decision for me. Both of them are unusable. (Apologies for the poor quality photos, I had to turn the flash off otherwise the photos were just blurry light.)

Anyway, they are just another thing to add to my list for the axles.

So, moving on. In the previous part, I gave the swivel pin housings a clean up and was at the stage of deciding what to do with them. Here is a reminder of the condition they were in:

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Well, they were cleaner than that when I finished them, I just don’t have photos to prove it. Whilst deciding what to do with them, a powder coaters opened up down the road from me. I took the swivel pin housings and various other parts to see what he thought. Long story short, he gave me a good deal as I was his first customer. Here are what my swivel pin housings look like now (well the drivers side one anyway):

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The colour is satin black. I have decided on a colour scheme of matt black, gloss black with green highlights.

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The mating faces still need a bit of work to clean them right up, but overall, really chuffed. I have dropped off my brake calipers to be blasted and coated in a green colour. I’m looking forward to seeing what they turn out like. The rest of the axles and suspension are going to be satin black, except the Panhard rod, which will be green like the calipers. I have the radius arms, rear trailing arms, A-frame, steering arm and spring platforms to go.

With that in mind, I ordered a bush pulling kit to get on with preparing the above for powder coating.

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The kit starts at 44mm, and goes up in 2mm increments to 100mm. Not much use for the bushes on the rear trailing arms which are 24mm, but there you go. I tried it out on the radius arms, I wouldn’t call it easy (it is, however, easier than pressing the bushes out with your thumbs would be), but it does the job.

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Here are the bushes in question, a pair of 51 or 52mm sleeved rubber bushes. They are pretty much your standard issue bush.

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Here is the puller set up. It is really easy to do. Just make sure that on the side the bush moves to the cup is large enough to engulf the bush.  I also used the thickest threaded rod I could fit through the bush without forcing it. Easy as that.

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This is the set-up I used, as I don’t have a bench, or a vice. I used the breaker bar as a lock against the floor and wound the nut with a ring spanner. As you can see the bush is half out.

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Here are both bushes out. They probably haven’t been changed in a while, and the one on the right looks slightly oval. Although, I think that is just an optical illusion (it is, I just went and measured them, they all hover around 50.50mm to 50.60mm in every direction I measured). The radius arm just needs a degrease and clean up, and it’s off to the powder coaters.

Anyway, that about wraps up my progress over the last month. Not as much as I’d like, but hey there’s always next month.